What was supposed to be the smaller, more casual little sister of Merivale’s larger dining room, inadvertently stole the show when they opened in tandem in early 2020. With Will’s Cocktail Bar, Una Más shares the same entrance and the same amenities as Mimi (including Sydney’s most glamorous bathrooms). But where Mimi’s reflects the successful model of great Merivale dinners (Fred’s, Bert’s, Hotel Centennial), Una Más has a personality and atmosphere of its own. Polite yet natural, Una Más captures the airy spirit of its beachfront location, complemented by a selection of equally airy Mediterranean small plates. A succinct menu is bolstered by daily specials, ensuring there’s always something new to explore, alongside familiar favorites (the octopus with fermented habanero is an essential order). Add to that naturally trending wines and spectacular waterfront views and Una Más easily wins the crown for a laid-back, laid-back diner in the port city.
Coogee Pavilion, 130a Beach St, Coogee, NSW
(02) 9114 7383
Cooks Jordan Toft & Andrew wandless
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveler Restaurant Guide. Guide reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Guide to gourmet restaurants 2022
Our guide gives an annual rundown of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The top-rated restaurants, based on first-hand experience from critics, make up our national Top 80.