Restaurant review

The 1786 Bond in Warrensburg

Warrensburg, like Lake George Village, does not rank high on many lists of foodie destinations. Yet the enduring appeal of the queen of America’s lakes makes it likely that you’ll at some point find yourself in or near Warrensburg, which, after all, is home to Oscar’s Smokehouse, where few forget their first pilgrimage to the fragrant store. with pork. It’s also home to Jacob & Tony’s Deli Meat Store of the North, which anyone who’s ever lived or stayed on Brant or Schroon Lakes or Lake George knows is an essential stop.

But with the restaurant scene booming in Queensbury and Bolton Landing, 30 minutes from Warrensburg, The Lotus Group of Companies, owned by Warrensburg developers Ash and Jaime Anand, has quietly revived the historic Merrill Magee Inn in the town as The Bond 1786. Having run as an inn almost continuously from the 19th century through the 1980s, the 10-room inn is back again after being closed and refurbished by new owners. Named after William Bond, who is said to be Warrensburg’s first settler, and the year he arrived, The Bond 1786 is complete with a working wood-burning fireplace in every room, a new patio for private events and the renovated restaurant, managed by displaced people. staff at The Grist Mill restaurant, also in Warrensburg and belonging to the Lotus group, which was unfortunately destroyed by fire at the end of 2020.

The 1786 Link

Address: 3 Hudson Street, Warrensburg

Hours: 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday

Price: Food, $9 to $46; cocktails, $8 to $14

information: 518-855-1786 and

Etc: Parking on the lot. Handicapped accessible.

Today, with fresh paint, good looks and a prime location in town, The Bond 1786 has a tavern, where locals rock their hips in jeans and shorts, and a fancy dining room with a stone fireplace and a cathedral height with exposed beams. ceiling. Here, the menu shifts from perennial Grist Mill favorites like baked Montrachet goat cheese and blue crab cake to influences from the Aspen, Colorado outpost of sushi empire Nobu, where Andrew Paul, the interim summer director of The Bond 1786, previously worked. On the pass, it’s Grist Mill sous chef Paul MacPherson donning the executive chef’s boots and frankly delivering. The meats and fish are expertly prepared, and if certain efforts — like fresh blueberries dotting a sweet corn mash — go overboard, there’s no doubting the chef-cut rib eye topped with marrow butter bone.

Thanks to Paul’s influence, there’s the Greenskeeper, a gin or tequila cocktail borrowed from Nobu and made with cilantro juice, serrano peppers and fresh ginger. Here, the textured thickness of the pulped green juice is unexpected, as it separates in the glass – as green juice usually will. But it’s actually plant-based and refreshing enough to make you think about adding alcohol to your breakfast green juice. It’s different and strangely good.

The beef carpaccio, in delicate sheets, arrives sprinkled with roasted garlic, mustard seeds and tiny pickled gherkins with tendrils of peas and grated horseradish. We pile the generous plate on a trio of crushed olive oil and cracked pepper crostini.

If you’re only stopping in for a drink at the bar, try the truffle deviled eggs sporting pickled mustard seed capsules, a funky pop on a classic. Sometimes sourcing from the local farmers’ market, The Bond 1786 also grows herbs on the property, with mint, basil and thyme used in cooking dishes and sea bass. Their chives sprinkle the homemade giant blue crab cake with a spicy remoulade topped with crispy slivered potatoes like picking sticks.

This 14-ounce rib eye is brushed with bone marrow butter and slathered with half a mushroom, with a heap of lightly roasted potatoes cut into unexpectedly thin slices on the side. The à la carte sides of candied Brussels sprouts or carrots with blood orange are too sweet for our taste, but you can share the small Caprese or cucumber-melon salads for a more seasonal effect.

We notice the nod to Nobu’s signature yellowtail tataki in a daily post with jalapeno, avocado and green onion. But it’s a recommendation of the house halibut that wins for a gorgeous golden crust and roasted corn mash that steals the heat of a jalapeno and scallion gremolata and the sweetness of lemon honey. The fresh blueberries increase the sweetness and feel like an afterthought that works awkwardly with the dish. The bottom line is that The Bond receives twice-weekly fish deliveries direct from Boston from Slopeside Seafood, and the freshness shows.

Scratch cuisine can show up in desserts when so many families stop in early for birthday dinners. A hot skillet cookie with vanilla ice cream might be the decadent ideal, but we ended up with a more wearable, Matilda-inspired chocolate fudge cake that could handle the rest of our ride home. home.

Whether the house is 20 minutes north of Bolton or 35 minutes south of Saratoga Springs, The Bond 1786 is laid-back enough for families and a fun addition to the Adirondacks dining scene year-round. The tavern is sure to be a cozy spot for skiers, and I’m inclined to take a leisurely weekend drive to brunch.

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