Yellow Brick Pizza has long been a multi-faceted operation. And “faceted” is a deliberate choice of word. Like a diamond and its facets, the seal has many sparkling sides. Yellow brick is suitable for classic pies. It also has acclaimed meatball subs. And, his version of Tristano’s deep dish is worthy of special occasion fare. You won’t find much of it in Columbus: two crusts sandwiching a sea of dreamy sauce, dripping cheese and toppings.
Whichever way you slice it, The Brick offers quality products.
And now you can cut it into squares: Yellow Brick has expanded its skills and empire, launching a side gig at the Short North Tavern. The new project is called Pie of the Tiger and offers a totally different menu: Square Pizza.
The square pizza is a little hot right now. Although not widely available, people tend to talk about it a lot, with projects such as Wizard of Za popularizing the genre. Pie of the Tiger (let’s just call it “POTT” for short) boasts Sicilian and Detroit influence on its pies. He’s cautious in his claims, because heated debates about authenticity are part of pizza territory. By way of introduction, the pizzas associated with Sicily are usually square and built on a thick focaccia crust. Detroit pizzas are also associated with the square shape and the sauce on top.
With that in the background, let’s start with our persistent default order position: pepperoni. It’s hard to do anything different with a pepperoni pie. There are only so many ways to swap out classic ingredients without clogging it up and destroying its identity. The execution here is significantly different from traditional local approaches, and different in a good way.
Just Pepperoni ($11) offers a square pie cut into four pieces. It’s built on a thick crust that will be a recurring theme in all POTT pies. The base of the crust is crisp on the outside and provides a deliciously springy backing for a swarm of provolone and pepperoni. Each square is topped with a generous dollop of marinara. The sauce is thick and its placement lets its bright tomato element shine through on its own.
A classic Daisy ($14) the pie is often as simple as a pepperoni: tomatoes, cheese, basil. At POTT, it’s a downright exciting combo. Crust, tomatoes, cheese, all present with a garlicky accent and bonus mountains of creamy ricotta. Magic takes the form of pesto: three-dimensional swirls of pesto crown creation. It’s not just a hint of green, the kitchen supplies diners with enough pesto to appreciate its pure presence.
You can make your own, with toppings including pepperoni, bacon, chicken, sausage, mushrooms and peppers. Again, the house combos have yet to disappoint. Example : RBC ($13) mixes bacon and chicken with provolone, then tops it with ranch. Sicily may have influenced the crust, but the Ohio accent is strong.
Even less conventional (but still friendly): Dill Chill ($12). Zesty dill pickles cut the provolone, paired with both hot sauce and more ranch. That’s a lot of zesty flavors in one package of pizza.
Pizza makes POTT a destination, but there are other options on the menu as well. There’s a small selection of sandwiches, plus entrees including chicken wings and mozzarella sticks. And the host, The Short North Tavern at 674 N. High St., has you covered on the drink side. The bar claims special status as “the oldest watering hole in the Short North”. May his partnership with POTT also prosper.
POTT is open from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily for dine-in and take-out.
All photos by Susan Post