Restaurant review

Restaurant Review: Moo Argentinian Steakhouse Soho

Argentinians have a passion for steak and a visit to the new Moo Steakhouse in Soho, the younger sister of gastropub Pimlico, demonstrates why they are the masters of the charcoal grill…

Photo: Moo Cantina

Quincho is the word for a special space in Argentine homes where the charcoal grill welcomes friends and family to enjoy good food and good wine. Moo recreates that cozy atmosphere with a touch of London elegance at his new Steakhouse set amidst the bustling neon lights of Soho’s Wardour Street.

The building itself was originally the Intrepid Fox pub, named after the UK’s first foreign minister in 1784. Moo’s owners have retained the historic exterior, but inside we find a elegant and contemporary space with a central kitchen and a relaxed and refined atmosphere.

Exposed brick walls, foliage, clean design, and emerald green seating provide a neutral backdrop for the restaurant’s superb Argentinian food and wine.

Owner Hernan Palacios was at the helm the night I visited and I got to see him working his steak magic in the kitchen, recreating that Quincho feel with a rhythmic London vibe.

After a refreshing mojito for me and an old-fashioned classic for my husband, we set the scene for the meal with a few delicate bites.

The savory empanadas were tiny pastries filled with beef and spinach and beef croquettes, lovely bites of meat with aili. Taste buds aroused we turned to the main attraction, the steak.

All meat is sourced from ethically raised, grass-fed Argentine black cattle from the Argentine pampas. The restaurant manager, Antonio, directed us to entrana, Argentina’s favorite cut of meat. It’s a long, savory cut that’s unfamiliar to us, but a nice find.

Cooked to perfection, it melts in your mouth. The most familiar cuts were the ribeye, sirloin and tenderloin, so we sampled a few as well. All steaks are available to share which is a great way to sample the different cuts and you can choose the size of your steak to suit your appetite.

Tiny bowls of chimichurri and other sauces are available, but we felt the meat needed no accompaniment other than the heavenly recommended bottle of La Mascota Malbec de Mendoza.

General Manager Mario and Restaurant Manager Antonio were attentive and informative. I asked how the chef got such perfect flavor and was told the meat was salted then cooked quickly over the charcoal.

Our steaks came with sweet potato fries and a crisp salad of arugula and parmesan, but we could have added triple cooked fries and roasted vegetables.

It seems a shame to come to Moo and not eat steak, but the menu includes burgers, salads and fish for those who want it.

Our steak was a tough act to follow, but we were tempted by the dessert menu and opted for the Flan Casero, Argentina’s version of creme caramel and a classic crepe with ice cream and chocolate sauce.

Restaurant manager Mario introduced us to his creation Don Palacio – a digestive made from egg white, port, lemon and cognac that added a colorful finishing touch to a meal full of South American flavors.

The background music changed throughout the night reflecting the change in pace and clientele.

Moo attracts a wide following, ranging from a young set of after-work cocktail professionals to sophisticated steak lovers savoring every bite and lingering over that glass of Malbec. And I imagine Soho’s movie and media crowd will let their creativity run wild over long, leisurely steak lunches here.

Address: 99 Wardour Street, Soho, W1F 0UF
Website: moocantina.fr




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