Kitchen enthusiast Rupali Dean left impressed after a meal at Kiyan, The Roseate New Delhi
Site: The Roseate, NH 8 Samalkha, New Delhi
Atmosphere: Located in the middle of the pillars of Isfahan and surrounded by royal blue water body, Kiyan was designed by Khun Lek Bunnag, whose dream was to assimilate art, design and landscape in an inimitable space. The open-air world cuisine restaurant is open from 7 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.
What we ate and drank: A crucial principle that Kiyan strives to embrace is sustainability. There is evidence of great care taken in sourcing produce, whether it comes from the restaurant’s own farm or from small farmers. Executive Chef Rajesh Sharma uses energy efficient techniques in cooking and is passionate about preserving, marinating and fermenting to add flavor and enhance the flavor of ingredients.
A bite in the Crispy shitake, brittle delicacy with an umami flavor, helps me understand why Kiyan remains a star in a city teeming with restaurants open all day. The food is almost unbelievably exotic, sourced from all over the world. The Mushroom Ki Gilawat sings evenly with the magnificent flavor of brie, and is accompanied by truffle biscotti and saffron yogurt.
Indeed, the chef’s strength lies in his unexpected but decisive combinations of ingredients, which go best with simple dishes. Therefore the Biological Pomelo salad (above) of pomelo bulbs mixed with lime and chili and served with a homemade tamarind sauce is spectacular. The Pla Neung Ma now, aka steamed fish, is extremely good and showcases the Thai way of using spices, enough but not too much, like a striking scent that still doesn’t overwhelm.
The liquid bowls here include a Double Cheese Baked Potato Soup, featuring mashed potatoes with cream cheese and whey parmesan, and the evocative name Autumn Mushroom Velouté, Air Truffle and Thyme, which celebrates slowly roasted mushrooms in a thyme-flavored liquid. Rich? Yes! Decadent? Absoutely!
The rich flavors of these dishes and desserts such as Chardonnay cake, served with ‘tipsy’ sauce and Tahitian ice cream, and the Fiery burn make us turn pale in no time.
Chocolate lovers are in luck: in the Jivara Small Cakes, pastry chef Anand Panwar concocts a deliciously evolved version of a chocolate mousse accompanied by a raspberry coulis and a sesame crunch.
Delicious food, in a beautiful ambience, with flavors that linger in your mouth – this is the essence of the Kiyan dining experience! Overall, the extraordinary level of preservation and the continuous rolling of new ingredients that change with the seasons are the strongest elements of fine dining. Friendly servers, a good drink list, and impeccable service make a meal here a totally indulgent experience.
Price points: Rs 2,500 + taxes for two