Restaurant review

Restaurant Review: FUSIAN (Westerville) – Columbus Underground

FUSIAN is a sushi restaurant that started with its first location in Cincinnati. He has long presented himself as sushi for everyone, but it’s not just sushi for everyone, it’s also sushi for everyone. At this point in the game, Columbus has its own FUSIAN restaurants in Easton, Grandview, Clintonville, and it added Dublin and Westerville last winter. Obviously, Columbus diners have hearty appetites for sushi.

That said, expectations matter. In keeping with its “everyone” mantra, FUSIAN is not so much a glitzy and precious sushi place for glitzy and precious palates. It’s a place that gets the job done. While guests can customize any roll, in glorious Chipotle tradition, there are enough preset house combos to make the decision burden pleasantly light for a newcomer. FUSIAN is fast and casual sushi, and it stays that way.

One more thing: the name “FUSIAN” is deliberate. Sushi sensibilities are fused with non-traditional ingredient choices, such as roast chicken or peanut butter.

So let’s get straight to the bird, shall we? Let’s just check it Spring chicken roll. The combination is enhanced by a mild soy wrap – a noticeably neutral match for poultry. The roast chicken comes with cucumber, cream cheese, green onions, spicy mayonnaise, sweetened soy (something reminiscent of teriyaki) and crunchy tempura. Verdict: The roll is a bit loose, it’s less tight than fancy sushi, but it works. Apart from the chicken, the other ingredients are familiar favorites of the sushi scene. Spring Chicken is a dish for the curious, a good starting point for further exploration at FUSIAN.

Spring chicken roll

the Philly roll has stronger flavors. On the rice side, it combines smoked salmon (like lox), cream cheese, cucumber, intense red onion and a generous dose of bagel seasoning. Although salmon is a familiar part of the sushi scene, it is generally not smoked. Again, it’s a successful combo, charming outside the arena of traditional sushi offerings.

Philly roll

A more traditional option might be something on the lines of a california roll. FUSIAN has them too. Dusted with sesame seeds, it has the expected collection of crab (stick), avocado and cucumber, and benefits from the energetic addition of homemade sweet soy sauce.

california roll

Beyond the roll options, there are a few other offerings that include salads and the Tuna Poke Bowl. It’s built on a rice base and features two rich elements: velvety pink chunks of wild tuna and silky avocado. Both mix it up with more cucumber (it seems to be in everything), perky edamame, and sesame seeds.

Tuna Poke Bowl

FUSIAN also offers its own house selection of soft drinks. A colleague enthusiastically recommended the Lavender lemonade, an option which, in addition to its alliterative characteristics, seems counterintuitive. In the execution, the fragrant lavender element lifts the childhood classic and gives it a feeling of freshness and sophistication. Two lessons: 1) lavender and lemon go together and 2) listen to happy diners.

Lavender lemonade

The Westerville version of FUSIAN is at 79 S. State St. The hours posted on its website say it opens daily at 10:40 a.m. It closes at 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and at 9:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

For more information, visit fusian.com.

All photos by Susan Post

FUSIAN’s seasonal coconut curry bowl is back
Another seasonal dish, Veggie Gyoza
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Miriam BowersAbbott

Miriam Bowers Abbott is a freelance Columbus Underground contributor who reviews restaurants, writes food-centric features, and occasionally writes other community journalism pieces.


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