Restaurant review

Restaurant review: Cèna in Paris

Cèna’s ever-changing menu is always impeccable. © Monsieur Tripper

David Lahner is today one of the most innovative restaurateurs in Paris, with a multitude of chic addresses in different neighborhoods that suit different clienteles and culinary desires. These include La Crèmerie, Le Bon Saint Pourçain, Anima, Racines, Caffè Stern, Vivant and now Cèna (the word means “dinner” or “supper” in Italian).

Located in an office district in the heart of the city in the 8th arrondissement, a few minutes walk from the Jacquemart-André museum, it fills a void in a district of Paris resolutely rich in starred restaurants and sandwich shops but which did not offer up to ‘then not much of a modern, healthy and inventive bistro cuisine which has become the delicious signature of contemporary gastronomy in Paris.

chef Alban Chartron
Chef Alban Chartron © Mr Tripper

The eclectic menu changes regularly and offers dishes such as fried artichokes à la romaine with arugula, guanciale and socca (pancake with chickpea flour) curry; pollack with tenderly roasted asparagus; and a rich chocolate mousse tempered with smoky black cardamom.

These quirky dishes reflect the gastronomic spirit and impressive CV of young chef Alban Chartron, who has worked at La Villa Florentine in Lyon, Le Louis XV in Monaco, Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, and at Epicure at the Hotel Bristol in Paris before resuming cooking here. Reservation is essential, as this place is very popular, especially at lunchtime.

Its calm and elegant interior
The calm and stylish interior of the restaurant in the 8th arrondissement of Paris © Mr Tripper

23 Rue Treilhard, 8th arrondissement, Paris
Phone. (33) 01 40 74 20 80,
€ 60 on average.

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From France Today magazine

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