Restaurant review

Restaurant Review: Boxwood Biscuit Co.

In 2016, restaurant publications began predicting a big cookie trend in the United States. Which is to say, cookie concept joints were going to be all the rage. Cookies on every menu! Unfortunately, this trend has never really manifested itself in these regions. Had a few joints with cookie sandwiches for breakfast, but that’s about it.

Five years later, as we move towards the end of the pandemic, there is light at the end of the tunnel. This light looks like cookies. They’ve been spotted in Grandview with Basic Biscuits, Kindness & Coffee, and this spring the Boxwood Biscuit Co. moved into permanent digs on Russell Street in the Short North.

Before we dive in, it’s worth noting that the cookies can be a bit tough. Unlike most baked goods, they don’t survive more than a day. A slice of day-old bread is usually quite appetizing, a day-old biscuit is sometimes better than a hot one. One Day Cookie: Not edible. So, a cookie business model must calculate its production very carefully. Anything cooked should be eaten. PLUS, cookies are always best warm. There really are no exceptions to this rule.

Luckily, Boxwood seems to know the biscuit rules.

Its square biscuits are served fresh, tender and hot. In a world of flaky or poofy cookies, Boxwoods are more on the poofy side. Fine on their own ($2.50), but the cookies are designed for partners, and there are plenty of partner options around the house. To start, there are spreads ($1 each). Miso maple butter may sound exotic, but it offers artisanal charm – miso can be sneaky this way, it offers just enough of its savory accent to complement the sweetness of maple. Alternatively, there is a luxury chilli cheese ($2) option that is also well worth the investment.

Chilli spread cookie

Or raise the bar with some Sauce (with two cookies, $8.50). It also comes with options. A few of these options revisit the possibilities of miso, this time with sausages. A Pork Sausage Miso Sauce the combo seems so… sensible that it’s shocking that the two elements aren’t paired together more often. It’s hard to tell where one savory element begins and the other leaves off, but together, against the creamy backdrop of the sauce, they go together beautifully.

Biscuit with miso sauce and pork sausage

There are other sauce options, including a vegan sausage version and a Spinach cream with truffle a. While spinach has its own fan club and is probably a good way to get veggies, it loses in a deathmatch to the miso-sausage version, looking flatter in comparison.

Biscuit with spinach juice and truffle cream

The cookies also serve as shells for breakfast sandwiches. The Franklin ($10) adds lean and crispy bacon, an egg (square, like the cracker), American cheese, onions, and enough sausage sauce to spread a bit on the sides. It’s a substantial sandwich that sticks to the ribs.

The Franklin

There is also a house commitment to chicken. While you can order chicken with your cookies, there are also chicken sandwiches served on a fluffy Martin’s Potato Roll, a bun with the kind of sweetness that embraces the aggressive crunch of homemade fried chicken – prepared using an approach from Korean frying. Try it single jack ($10), more bird than bread, it’s finished with gravy, pickles, and fiery sriracha ranch dust that delivers a delicious zesty kick at the end.

The Simple Jack

For vegans, Boxwood offers animal-free cookies, spread, gravy, and even a sandwich your way. These days, it’s open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Sunday at 19 W. Russell St. in the Short North.

For more information, visit buisbiscuitco.com.

All photos by Susan Post


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