Restaurant review

Restaurant review: Bagatelle bistro in Dubai – News

REPRODUCING DECENT MODELS of France’s cultural contribution abroad is no small task. The Gallic fortress is famous for its peaks in painting, cinema (not the frowning theater), music and especially gastronomy. Judging from experience, attempts to approximate an “authentic” restaurant experience, when the nearest pétanque court is over a thousand kilometers away, seem to require only pasting vintage posters from the past. ‘Ikea-esque on the wall, dressing up the staff in fancy attire and throwing some Edith Piafs on the stereo while serving four differently named versions of the same steak and fries. However, this is not the case at Bagatelle Dubai; perhaps one of the most glitzy joints in town. While the art that adorns the dining room is not for everyone, it is quirky and probably costs a few dollars. The beautifully appointed tables are resplendent with quality white linen and the parquet floors evoke a lounge atmosphere, which could easily pass for a bistro just off the Cannes Croisette.

Known for launching Saint-Tropez-inspired shindigs virtually every night of the week, Bagatelle’s reputation as Belle Epoque the merry-go-round is firmly cemented, but how does cooking compare to first-class frivolity? We ventured out unusually early on a weekday evening, in order to be ahead of the fun and focus on the kitchen products.

What happened was a flurry of French fantasies. Fantastic. We wouldn’t go so far as to say the recipes were experimental, although the qualities of the ingredients and the chef’s obvious prowess shone. Highlights included a delicate but hearty tuna tartare with an avocado and lime vinaigrette, a surprising but incredibly welcome cheese plate as a starter and a salmon carpaccio, which, stacked on top of the marinated fennel that accompanied it. , released aromas so rich it was almost intoxicating.

For the main course, the flagship dish consisted of a whole sea bass, grilled and topped with a confit of fennel, diced roasted potatoes, shallots and arugula. The fish was an absolute triumph. Fresh, flaky, and offering a cheerful alternative to more robust meat dishes, we’ll be back on our own for this course. A quick mention has to go on the side of distinction – a black truffle pizza – but frankly, it was all about bass.

Or: Bagatelle, Fairmont Dubai

Best dish: Grilled sea bass

A V. cost per person: 500 DH

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