Restaurant review

Restaurant review: Baccalà Bermondsey specializes in excellent seafood and wine

The weather outside can be chilly and chilly, but if you want to transport yourself to the Adriatic Sea, head to Baccalà in Bermondsey, a family restaurant run by two couples that specializes in excellent seafood and wine…

Photo: Baccala

The Italian restaurant, which is run by a family of two couples and run by chef Moreno Polverini and sommelier Fabio de Nicola, had the misfortune to open a few months before the first nationwide lockdown and just as they were gaining a seat among the favorites of locals.

The locals have returned and have remained loyal, with a former resident sitting next to me telling me that she comes back every time she’s in town, despite moving to Rye during the lockdown.

The restaurant is named after the famous Italian salt cod dish and a solid example of it is on display in a version whipped with extra virgin olive oil (EVOO).

The salt cod bomb is well balanced with borlotti beans, mussels and puntarelles.

The restaurant offers a serious wine list covering the twenty regions of Italy as well as an EVOO tasting menu.

Olive oils vary wildly in color and flavor and are best cleaned up with their terrific sourdough bread.

It’s not the leaven you attempted to make during confinement to impress your friends.

Instead, it’s a strong reminder of why these things are best left to professionals.

While the dishes stay true to the chef’s home in Fermo, in central Italy off the Adriatic Sea, they are expertly prepared with seasonal ingredients.

The best example is in a dish with smoked salmon and Devon crabs.

This exquisite seafood accord is nicely complemented by a jam of green tomatoes.

If you are looking for something even more luxurious, there is a spaghetti dish with sea urchins layered to create a rich sauce with the salty taste of the sea.

There’s also a charcoal-roasted cuttlefish seasoned with parsley and EVOO that’s balanced with a crispy radicchio.

The radicchio is drizzled with bagna cauda, ​​a hot sauce made from garlic and anchovies that gives the dish a nice finishing touch.

There is a good selection of wines by the glass ranging from £ 4.50 to £ 10 and a long list of bottles, selected mainly from small independent Italian producers.

The restaurant is a family affair with the conception of Nicola’s wife, Ilanit Ovadya, and Polverini’s wife, Elif Taner Polverini, overseeing the hospitality.

The downstairs restaurant, as well as the basement that overlooks the open kitchen, has a lively atmosphere but not too loud that you can’t hear your date.

There is also a dedicated oyster menu as well as a fisherman’s lunch, served every Saturday and featuring the best seafood available on the market that day, accompanied by a beer from the Cornish brewery St. Austell.

For authentic Italian seafood and wine, the restaurant is not to be missed.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. sit-down lunch: 12 pm-3pm; sit-down dinner: 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m. Open for the oyster aperitif from Wednesday to Friday from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Address: Unit B3 194-204, rue Bermondsey, SE1 3TQ

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