Restaurant review

David Toutain – Business Traveler

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The restaurant offers four tasting menus named after vegetables or plants, though only two are available at dinner — Lierre Terrestre (ground ivy) and Queen Of The Meadows (a woodland herb).

Dietary requirements should be provided when booking and be sure to keep plenty of hours free as there are countless courses – note that I can’t discuss them all, you’ll want to be surprised after all!

The menu is dictated by seasonal produce and Toutain works with eco-friendly independent producers, sources locally and orders dishes based on the number of confirmed reservations. The menu is therefore constantly changing and is neither listed online nor presented to diners upon arrival.

However, some dishes are still present, notably the first and very memorable course of salsify, camouflaged among twigs and accompanied by a bowl of cream sprinkled with peanuts.

We started the meal with a glass of Champagne Rosé Insouciance from Huré Frères, served so that the sparkling white foam crowned the pale pink hue of the rosé.

The experience kicks off with some very refined bite-sized dishes – bite-sized dishes such as the aforementioned salsify that aim to get you closer to the roots by engaging your senses.

The main “over time” section is the most time-consuming section, as the name “over time” suggests. It started with one of our favorite dishes, a creamy Dutch-style egg presented in its shell in a raffia nest, accompanied by an irresistible madeleine-style corn cake that I would happily eat every day.

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