Restaurant review

Chef Pierre Koffmann and journalist Richard Vines launch Koffmann & Vines website and restaurant review column

The names are familiar to you …
Yes. Restaurant’s most tenacious duo Pierre Koffmann and Richard Vines – think Walter Matthau of Grumpy Old Men meets Patsy and Edina of Ab Fab (individual sartorial sense, always seen with a glass of champagne in hand) – put on their expansive dining , drink and, in Pierre’s case, culinary experience wisely with their new restaurant review site.

They make a great pair. Should restaurateurs be worried?
Hopefully not. The duo said their goal with the website was “to critically support the hospitality industry, promoting great food and great restaurants,” so there won’t be a chef or restaurateur here. . Restaurants will be rated with one to four “discs” – one for a good restaurant; two for a very good restaurant; three for an excellent establishment and four for a place deemed exceptional.

How will it work?
With a deserved reputation as one of the UK’s greatest chefs, Pierre will be speaking out on the cuisine, while he and Richard will assess other aspects such as service and ambiance (Richard will no doubt put his wine experience to profit). As a writer and host with over 40 years of experience, including 25 years at Bloomberg as chief food critic, Richard will be in charge of the prose, but the final review will always be a common voice they promise. .

Wait, but aren’t they friends with a lot of chefs?
Well yes, there is that. This is something the couple have acknowledged, and they say they will “try to avoid fattering our friends.” To that end, they must book anonymously, although any restaurant that doesn’t spot this particular duo a mile away deserves all they get (see main image for proof).

So, no Bob Bob Ricard City review is coming up?
You wouldn’t think so given that the newly renovated restaurant sports a specially commissioned American Gothic-style portrait of the couple on its walls. But that doesn’t mean they’ll ignore their long-standing acquaintances altogether – their first review is on Russell Norman’s newly opened Brutto in Clerkenwell, and EVERYBODY knows Russell. Upcoming restaurants to be reviewed will include Maison Francois, Akoko, 7 Saints and Oslo Court, with plans to review venues outside of London in due course.

Interesting. So how did it go ?
Review of a record is generally positive, but there are snippets that show they’re not afraid to sharpen their knives when called upon, with a description of roast potatoes that “tastes good.” from spending too much time with their friends before. reach the dining room ”. For the sake of balance, the couple also ate many Brutto dishes which were delicious, concluding: “We recommend that you treat Brutto like straight-out-of-the-oven bread: enjoy it while it’s hot.”

Move over Jay Rayner
Stay here. Koffmann & Vines is described as a lowly business and the duo say they won’t compete with “big beast professional reviewers”. But all that could change if, in the years to come, the conductors demand a four disc rating on a certain three star rating…


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