Restaurant review

Blue Boar Pub, London SW1: ‘There is a lot to love’ – restaurant review | Food

INormally the pubs around Westminster are perpetually buzzing; the area is a honey pot for tourists and, well, politicians need places to dry off their assistants. One need only look at any recent sexy political digression to instinctively know that alcohol and drinking glasses were involved. Of course nothing is normal right now, so the all new spanking Blue boar pub, which is about a 10 minute walk from the House of Commons, was peacefully quiet at the midweek lunch time I visited.

The Blue Boar bills itself as “a sophisticated, modern take on a classic English pub” selling lager and albariño by the glass, alongside fish and chips, Scottish eggs, and chic pork gratins. etc., all overseen by the incredibly accomplished chef Sally Abé. I understand the need for the Blue Boar to present its stand as an “English pub” to attract foreign tourists and residents of the Conrad St James Hotel, to which it is attached, but the truth is that there are pubs British themes on cruise ships. which offer more of a slightly shabby British liquor feeling.

The blue boar crowning scotch chicken egg: “Really pretty good.

The Blue Boar, on the other hand, is a sleek, immaculate space with plush rugs, wine buckets, dozens of overstuffed leather chairs, costumed bartenders, and warm, knowledgeable staff. Anyone who has killed time in one of the many semi-neglected London pubs on the street corners of Fitzrovia, Soho and South Bank knows that this level of pomp is not typical. In fact, whoever walks into a pub, say, Oxford Street expecting to order a cold hard Tommy’s margarita or a sumptuous plate of Wye Valley asparagus with a smoky crème fraîche dressing can be disappointing. Yet if one ignores, or even relishes, the fact that the Blue Boar is not a pub at all, but a laid back restaurant run by an extremely respected chef, then there is a lot to love about this business. It’s clear, airy, crisp and cheerful enough, as if an eccentric American billionaire spotted a Wetherspoons in Blackpool and waved his arms around, shouting, ‘Yes I do, but make it very, very dear and bring it. me a chef who worked at Ledbury, Elystan Street and Harwood Arms making burgers and burgers the hell! (Abé, by the way, also runs a more formal fine-dining restaurant called The Pem at the same hotel, where I plan to eat soon.)

Montgomery Cheddar Quiche, Blue Boar pub, Westminster, London.
Montgomery Blue Boar’s Cheddar Quiche: “When it’s made like this, there’s nothing like a quiche.

I ate at Blue Boar with my friend Hugh, who helped me browse the menu with a few cold glasses of gavi di gavi. We were placed on a table for two in the window area facing the street, but there are more comfortable and comfortable tables if you are reviewing overdue documents with a flexible special advisor. We started with the bar snacks section and some really good crowning chicken scotch eggs – warm, breaded and crispy egg yolks – which were served with a golden raisin chutney. Delicious. The white baits were big, half-soggy beasts, but we demolished them anyway. And pork scratches were those big, modern, light and airy affairs, rather than the old-fashioned, hairy and scabby ones that haunt many of our nightmares since childhood, and accompanied by a sweet bramley apple sauce.

As a starter, we shared a good quiche with Montgomery cheddar, leeks and smoked ham. Never before had I mentioned the quiche in a restaurant column. It has disappeared from our restaurant menus, which is a shame, because when it is made like that, there is no such thing, even if it always reminds me of the time when the Lorraine quiche arrived for the first time in the 1970s Carlisle with a handwritten name tag in the pastry shop window, and the word quickly spread across my street that it was pronounced ‘Quwinkie’. London’s Peculiar Soup is the go-to entry if you’re hoping to wow your Instagram followers: it’s a striking green garden pea soup with a poached chicken egg and herb focaccia.

Shepherd's pie with blue boar lentils:
Blue Boar Lentil Shepherd’s Pie: “I couldn’t say no, especially because it came with a pitcher of rich black garlic sauce.” Photograph: Karen Robinson / The Guardian

For the main course, I chose one of the many vegetarian and vegan options at Blue Boar – they are very good like that – namely lentil shepherd’s pie with a side of purple sprouted broccoli. It was the hottest day of the year and the back of my knees were sweaty, but I couldn’t say no to a shepherd’s pie, especially one that came with a pitcher of rich garlic sauce. noir. The fish of the day’s market was the lemon sole, arrived under-seasoned and accompanied by a rather anonymous lemon, parsley and caper butter.

We skipped the puddings because nothing on the menu – buttermilk and strawberry pannacotta, Earl Gray chocolate mousse or apple pie – jumped out at us as irresistible. If any truly British rib stickers such as spotted cock or roly-poly jam had been offered I would have fully engaged in the cause, but instead we finished the gavi and headed back to the sun. Not sure if I would go back to the Blue Boar to eat, but it is a useful place to keep your sleeve for a drink and a quick bite near the village of Westminster. Alternatively, if you’re not in the mood for politicians right now, you at least know where the assholes are drinking.

Blue boar pub 45 Tothill Street, London SW1, 020-3301 8080. Open weekdays, noon to midnight (Sun 12:30 pm to midnight). Around £ 35 per person for three courses, plus drinks and service

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